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Gary's
Auburn Journal Column Published 6/15/05
Shanghai's
Passing a Reminder to Other Business Owners
Last
Friday I ate lunch at The Berghoff, a downtown Chicago icon right off of State
Street, owned and operated by the same German family since 1898. The place is
a classic, complete with 70-foot oak bar, paneled walls and waiters dressed in
smart black jumpers. 
There
was no need to look at a menu. I ordered the restaurant's signature dish, sauerbraten:
marinated roast sirloin of beef drenched in a sweet and sour gravy served with
spaetzles and steaming-hot creamed spinach. I chased it with a slice of genuine
rye bread and a stein of Berghoff beer.
The joint was jammed with diners,
and the stand-up bar was SRO; a waiting line snaked around velvet ropes. After
more than 100 years of offering amazing cuisine backed by great service in an
historic structure, The Berghoff has never been more popular than it is today.
Returning home to Auburn Friday evening, I learned that the Shanghai Restaurant
and Bar, operated by the Yue family since 1896, was about to close its doors forever.
These very similar establishments-each launched by hard-working immigrants--are
a study in contrast. How could two veritable institutions survive the cruelties
of two world wars, the Great Depression and Prohibition, and now a reported lease
dispute brings one down?
The impending closure of the Shanghai is much
more complicated than a lengthy family feud. The actual reasons are less dramatic
but much more compelling. Reduced to its core, it's all about the money and Auburn's
rapidly shifting demographics, realties that have the potential to imperil other
local businesses.
Reality One: When leases for commercial rental space
are increased to prevailing rates, small businesses inevitably suffer. The Shanghai's
woes can be traced to the fact that an antiquated 15-year lease ended and the
building owner rightfully seeks to achieve full value for his property. If a tenant's
per-square-foot rate triples from 50 cents to $1.50 or even higher, the business
model needs a complete overhaul. . .whether you are selling beer or antiques.
Reality Two: Historic buildings are incredibly costly to maintain, and
deferring maintenance typically leads to major trouble. Even a cursory inspection
of the Shanghai building reveals that the structure needs expensive attention.
Without reasonable rental income, though, costly renovations are impossible to
achieve.
Reality Three: The traditional customer base of the Shanghai
is shrinking exponentially as the face of Auburn changes. With the rapid influx
of affluent residents and a median home price of $600,000, the shot-and-a-beer
crowd is a vanishing breed. Changing attitudes toward alcohol consumption plus
stepped-up police surveillance for DUI offenders has taken its toll on the party-hard
crowd.
Reality Four: The market ultimately speaks. When a business folds,
typically it is because there is a paradigm shift or the owners failed to listen
to their customers. The Berghoff (www.berghoff.com), mentioned above, is thriving
after 100 years because what it provides is in sync with customer demands-truly
great food, a pristine environment and attentive service delivered in truly unique
surroundings.
In Old Town, the first joint to close was the Happy Hour
when the owners retired years ago. The Shanghai shuttered its restaurant earlier
this year, and the reasons for that were distinct from the bar closure.
Absent
a white knight to save the Shanghai's day, the California Club will be the last
Old Town bastion for early-morning imbibers and Harley riders seeking a beer stop
off of I-80. It will enjoy-at least for the moment--100% market share.
There
is no joy in any quarter of Old Town with the Shanghai's passing. But few who
live and work in this enclave will miss the aberrant behavior of motorcycle hot-rodders
and the disproportionate level of police services expended responding to bloody
fist fights on the plaza.
Those who say such abuses are part of Old Town's
gritty charm simply do not spend much time here. The fact is the Wild West has
been dead for decades and the crossroads of Sacramento and Lincoln Way is simply
catching up with gentler times.
So what is next after the 109-year collection
of stuff is auctioned from the Shanghai on June 25? Word on the street is Awful
Annie's has expressed interest in taking the space, but the smart money says the
place should stay true to its heritage as a bar and restaurant. Whoever gets the
place, though, will bear the immense burden of bringing the property into compliance
with building, health and handicapped-access codes.
It seems inevitable
that the neon lights will dim for the final time at the Shanghai. But what I hope
never changes is the funky expression of place that is unique to Old Town. That
is the eclectic collection of personalities, traditions and timeless structures
congealing in this place we all love.
The simple fact is nothing lasts
for ever. But there is a warning in this to all who have temporary ownership of
landmarks: those who accept the role of custodian must be vigilant in their responsibilities
lest they suffer the end of an era on their personal watch.
Gary's
Auburn Journal Column Published 1/26/05
Wine
Delights in Amador County
Roughly
15 months ago, I took a day trip into the Shenandoah Valley to visit new wineries,
including Cooper Vineyards on Shenandoah School Road in Amador County. On Monday,
I retraced my route to see how this fledgling operation was doing. What I found
was a flourishing enterprise producing some great wines in a world-class facility.
Half the fun in trekking to Amador is the ride. Avoiding the Rte. 49 canyon
route because of dense fog at lower elevations, my crew for the day (son, Drew
and friend, Phil Kemp-who was along for the ride in October 2003) decided to go
the long way. We drove down to Folsom and then back up to El Dorado Hills and
Latrobe Road, which took us to E-16 and a direct shot into Plymouth. Latrobe Road
is a delight in any weather.
We breezed in and out of fog all along the
twisty, narrow route, mostly devoid of structures for miles and miles. Cattle
grazed on green hillsides covered in mist, occasionally interrupted with pockets
of blinding sun.
Climbing out of the fog in Amador, we were greeted with
hillsides draped in dormant vines, soaking up the rays. I was amazed at how many
new winery and tasting rooms dotted the landscape. In the last year at least a
half-dozen new ventures have been launched, and the Amador Vintners' organization
now boasts 25 winery members.
Our first stop was Cooper Vineyards, where
we met Assistant Winemaker Mike Roser in a new combined winery/tasting room structure.
When we first visited, all wines were made in custom crushes off the ranch. No
longer. The 2,000-square-foot facility opened December 17, and the tasting hours
are Friday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. or by appointment.
This beautiful,
high-ceiling structure features an elegant tasting bar and bin storage tucked
in one corner, with giant arched, double-door entrances on either end of the building.
The solid cedar doors were made locally, and vineyard owner Dick Cooper fabricated
the hardware in his own shop. A vintage Indian motorcycle, a gift from a close
friend, is displayed from a balcony above the winery floor.
Roser works
with Winemaker Rich Gilpin, a widely respected consultant and owner of his own
winery, Lavender Ridge in Murphys. Roser tasted us through the entire portfolio
of Cooper's 12 wines, a very aggressive start for a winery in its infancy.
"We
make no more than 300 cases of anything," said Christine Cooper, who manages the
tasting room as well as winery-direct sales and marketing programs. "As varieties
sell out we have new wines coming on line-there's always going to be something
new."
Last year, Cooper Vineyards produced 2,700 cases of wine; this year
the yield is expected to be 3,000, with a maximum capacity of 5,000. Much of the
fruit comes from the Cooper's 60 acres of vines on their 158-acre ranch.
In
fact, owner Dick Cooper is perhaps the premier vineyard operator in the region,
and he manages more than 100 acres for other growers. His barbera grapes are highly-prized
by wineries such as Lava Cap, Runquist and Mt. Vernon. He does not, however, participate
in making Cooper wines.
"I understand what the guys are doing," he explained,
"but I'm better off delegating the winemaking and concentrating on making the
grapes because that's where great winemaking starts."
My personal picks
from the Cooper line-up start with the 2002 Primitivo ($23) which kicks you in
the nose with huge aromas and finishes with pepper and spice on the palate. Primitivo
is not widely cultivated, but this zinfandel-like variety is growing in popularity.
I also favored the 2002 Petite Sirah ($18), rich in every measure-lush
fruit, dense color and a perfect pairing for a juicy steak. This one is a great
value. Another winner is the 2002 Sangiovese ($19). You get ripe cherries, smooth
mouthfeel, soft tannins and chocolate on the end.
It's hard not to linger
at Cooper. Sit outside under the new grape arbor with a glass of wine and you'll
want to spend the afternoon soaking in Amador. "This is really a beautiful spot,
and I want to make it so people enjoy it" said Cooper, who went to grammar school
in a one-room building just beyond one of his vineyards. "I enjoy the ranch everyday,
and we want to share the sunsets."
Gary's
Auburn Journal Column Published 12/22/04
The
good stuff: Making sure it's in your glass this holiday season
Over
the next 10 days or so, you'll be hitting the party circuit hard. Not only will
you be attending your share of holiday bashes, it's likely you'll be hosting an
event or two. Here are some tips for giving wine as hostess gifts, wines to serve
when you entertain, as well as some specific suggestions about Champagnes and
sparkling wines to celebrate the emergence of twenty-oh-five.
Bringing
wine to a party: The conventional wisdom is to bring wine to a party as a
gift with no expectation of having the bottle opened when you present it. My reaction
to that thinking is ... baloney! How many times have you been to an event and
your host offers up a tumbler brimming with the latest $1.99 offering from the
grocery superstore?
You don't have to drink that swill, not an ounce.
Here's all you do. Simply say to your host: "I've found an awesome zinfandel (or
cab or chard, fill in the blank), and you've absolutely got to try it right now!"
It is important to feign true excitement.
If you're worried about bringing
wine to a party not knowing what food is being served ... no problem! Bring a
nice blend or Meritage. They go with just about any cuisine. Here's what to say:
"I was hoping you were serving (fill in the blank here) because this wine is a
perfect match! Can I open the bottle for you?"
Some of you may have difficulty
resolving the potential of internal conflict; you may develop a case of guilty
conscience adhering to my suggestions. No problem, just bring two bottles of wine,
one to consume immediately and one for your host to enjoy later.
Here's
a key piece of advice: I highly recommend you bring your own corkscrew, just in
case the host does not own one. (Do not bring your own crystal wine glasses, even
though it would significantly improve your wine experience. There is a limit.)
Serving wine at your own party: The flip side is you're the host
and you must decide what wine to serve. You're happy to present the best from
your personal stock, but you know that many of the people you've invited don't
know squat ... they can't discern Charles Shaw from Caymus.
When a well-meaning
guest brings their favorite "white zinfandel" to your home, here's what to say:
"What an awesome bottle! Let's get this puppy open right now!" Get your guests
a couple of glasses and fill them up. Pour yourself a tiny bit, taste it and then
say something like: "Mmmmm, this is yummy!" Then rush back into the kitchen and
check the roast.
This may sound elitist, but the best way to solve the
wine dilemma is to hide the good stuff. You know who among your guests appreciates
fine wine and who could care less what they drink. So open up nice value wines
that guests can serve themselves, and stow the pricey stuff in the kitchen, where
you can retreat to refill without being observed. Of course, you must make the
good stuff available to those with appreciative palates.
If you are caught
in the act of dipping into the fine wine, just say this: "Oh, you would despise
this stuff ... it's bone dry and incredibly tannic." Or, for guests accustomed
to purchasing wine with "born-on dating" your defense could be: "This is really
old wine we've had laying around for 10 years and I'm just trying to get rid of
some."
Another approach to determine worthiness is to have your guests
answer a few simple wine appreciation questions. If they can explain the difference
between a syrah and a petit sirah; if they can guess Robert Mondavi's age within
five years; and if they've seen the movie "Sideways;" pour them a glass of Opus
One.
Four bubbly suggestions: I read recently that 25 percent of
all wine consumed in the U.S. is sold between Thanksgiving and New Year's Day.
With that in mind and with the opportunity to extend an olive branch to our friends
across the pond, here are four recommendations for French wines that you won't
find at the box stores:
- 2001 Saint-Hilaire Brut. For less than $11 you
can get a truly wonderful French sparkling wine. This is not a Champagne, but
it is dry, crisp and bubbly, made by a 450-year-old winery that once counted Thomas
Jefferson as a client.
- NV Champagne Deutz Brut Classic. This Champagne
offers creamy strawberry flavor with biscuity yeast and a fine, smooth finish.
Costs about $32 a bottle.
- NV Fleury Brut Rose Champagne. Made from 100
percent pinot noir, this is Champagne with tiny bubbles and strawberry on the
nose for about $45. - 1995 Laurent-Perrier Brut Champagne. A fine, vintage Champagne
for about $45.
Archived from 12-15-04 Window
on Old Town
Festival
of Lights is a Small Town Joy
Nearly
five years ago, when Laura and I made our first house-hunting trip to Auburn,
we stayed at the Powers Mansion Inn, the manor home of an old estate sitting on
a small hill above downtown Auburn. That first evening, just as darkness fell,
the streets lit up with vehicles and floats of all manner, decorated in strings
of Christmas lights.
As first-time visitors, we were duly impressed by
the seemingly endless display. Yet it wasn’t until last Saturday that I actually
made it to another running of the most popular event hosted in Auburn.
Laura
and I walked downtown from Carpe Vino, heading to Ty and Catherine Rowe’s home
on High Street to watch the show. Ty owns Bootleggers, an American bistro style
restaurant, and he is a great friend. We cooperate on numerous levels, and he
is a fun guy to be around. . .especially when he takes off on a rant (about liberals,
taxes, Clinton, et.al.).
When we intersected High Street, I could not
believe the mass of people crowding the sidewalks and spilling into the streets.
Families were bundled up in coats and quilts, huddling in lawn chairs. People
were standing three and four deep, and the crowd consumed the entire parade route
to the Gold Country Fair Grounds. The Auburn Journal estimated the crowd at between
13,000 to 18,000; there are barely 12,000 residents in the entire city.
We
walked in the street dodging kids on bicycles up to the Rowe house, a beautifully
restored residence dating back to the 1920s. Ty and Catherine had invited upwards
of 80 people to roast hot dogs and enjoy chili and other picnic fare in front
of their home. Two fire pits were burning and a table was laden with food, beer
and box wine (arrrrgh). Giant Christmas balls hung from the tree limbs above
Ty, a bear of a man who has lost more than 400 pounds since undergoing gastric
surgery, was holding court out front, wearing a Santa hat. A major supporter of
Placer High sports, (he is a member of the notorious “Creeping Meatball” line
from a 70s-era Hillmen football team) Ty unmercifully taunted the teenage boys
at the party, slap fighting with whom ever he could engage.
Laura and
I, with roasted hot dogs in hand, stood in front and watch the parade ease by.
There were more than 100 lighted entries, with transports of all kind represented.
Many companies simply towed the implements of their business, gaily lighted with
a holiday theme. An excavating company brought out a flatbed hauling a tractor,
completely shrouded in white lights.
There were dozens of vintage fire
trucks, antique cars, trucks and decorated golf carts. Two tiny, BMW Izettas were
featured, one with a wind-up key turning on its trunk, with a cart in tow hauling
two dogs. There was a 4-H club herding goats, and the E.V. Cain Marching Band
played its heart out. The Waldorf School impressed the crowd with a huge dragon
float, and just about every organization in town was represented.
My favorite
entry, hands down, was the Sugar Plump Fairies, roughly a dozen gaily dressed,
doused in make-up, smiling, waving. . .fairies. These were mostly plump people,
men and women both, dressed in flowing gowns, dripping with lace and crepe.
Each
wildly colorful pixie was equipped with a magic wand and a set of wings. Only
in Auburn. . .
Eventually, the obvious dawned on me. This is what Christmas
and the holiday season is supposed to be about. No commercialism. Kids having
fun. Families joined together. A community out in force.
The longer I
live here, the more I appreciate the place. . .this is small town living at its
finest. Even though I’ve called Auburn home for five years, by local standards
I am very much an outsider. Still, I can genuinely appreciate the value of the
place—perhaps even more than those who have lived here a lifetime.
Gary's
Auburn Journal Column Published 12/08/04
Give the Gift
of Wine this Holiday Season
Now
that I've seen the Sugar Plump Fairies, Christmas must be just around the corner.
In the midst of the Festival of Light Parade last Saturday evening--among
Headstart's Southern Pacific steam engine, the E.V. Cain marching band, a battalion
of vintage fire engines, scores of horses and two tiny, wind-up BMW Izettas-pranced
roughly a dozen gaily dressed, doused in make-up, smiling, waving. . .fairies.
These were mostly plump people, men and women both, dressed in flowing
gowns, dripping with lace and crepe. Each wildly colorful fairy was equipped with
a magic wand and a set of wings. Only in Auburn. . .
You can be a Sugar
Plump Fairy this holiday season by spreading joy with gifts of wine. Here are
ideas to jump-start your holiday shopping for the wine lover in your life.
Book a wine tour. Wine touring and tasting in the foothills is a great
way to spend an afternoon, but if your itinerary is too aggressive, you can easily
get yourself in trouble.
The solution is to give the gift of a formal
wine tour, which allows your recipient to enjoy wine tasting without the worry
of how to get home safely. Plus, with a commercial wine tour, you'll often get
access to areas of wineries closed to the public, special barrel and reserve tastings
and a chat with the winemaker.
One local company is Sierra Gold Wine Tours,
which specializes in Nevada County trips, but also offers programs for El Dorado,
Placer and Amador Counties. You travel on 22-passenger mini coach and receive
lunch for $70 per person. Call 530-265-9589 for information.
Give a
set of premium wine glasses. Nothing enhances the experience of sipping wine
than doing it from a proper vessel. Arguably, Riedel Crystal of Austria offers
some of the finest wine glasses in the world. The firm makes more than 100 different
styles of glass because, according to its web site, "The delivery of a wine's
'message', its bouquet and taste, depend on the form of the glass."
So,
there are glasses designed specifically for every possible wine varietal, everything
from cabernet sauvignon to Champagne. The stuff is pricey, though, with lead crystal
glasses starting at about $20 per stem.
An excellent gift for your wine
aficionado is a set of four glasses in a gift box, one each of pinot noir, chardonnay,
Riesling and cabernet. Cost is about $100.
Sign up for a wine club.
This is the gift that keeps on giving. Your recipient will get regular shipments
of wine, and you can usually specify the type (white or red) and the cost of wine
for each delivery. You can also specify frequency, such as monthly or once per
quarter.
With a wine club your recipient will be able to explore wines
that he or she may not normally purchase. Since discovery is such an important
part of wine enjoyment, this is a great opportunity.
There are 1,700 wineries
in California, and each has a wine club. However, joining a wine club sponsored
a wine store or internet site is a good deal, too, since the range of choice is
much greater.
Purchase a "vertical" set of wines, or put together a
themed gift. Every vintage of the same wine changes from year to year. If
the wine lover in your life has a favorite, see if you can get a vertical, a series
of the same wine from different years.
For example, you could try to find
Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon from 1997, 1998 and 1999. Another approach is to
use a theme, such as three world-class merlots or three California State Gold
Medal winners or three different wines that scored more than 90 points from Wine
Spectator magazine.
Your imagination is the only limitation. You could
do a selection of wines with animals on the label or you could find wine with
the same name as your recipient (Smith, Green and Frank are easy!). Taste is another
issue, though, with these approaches.
Buy a wine magazine subscription.
Wine lovers love to read about wine. So purchase a year's subscription to
one of the big three: Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast or Wine & Spirits. A more
obscure but great monthly read is Decanter magazine from Britain.
Pair
a great port with a great cigar. There is no better way to end a meal or a
day than by sipping on a port and puffing on a cigar. My current favorite is Royal
Oporto, a 10-year-old Portuguese port that costs $25 for 750 ml. Match that with
a Kuba Kuba aromatic cigar from Drew Estates ($9) and you can die happy.
Gary's
Auburn Journal Column Published 11/10/04
Done
in a Day: Nevada County Tasting Rooms
Over
the past year or so, there has been a virtual explosion of new wineries launched
in Nevada County. Last time the Nevada County Winery Association published a brochure,
just nine members were listed. Today, according to Nevada City Winery's Rod Beyer,
there are at least 15 bonded wineries.
That's the good news; the bad news
is there is no contiguous wine trail as you'll find in places such as El Dorado
County's Apple Hill and Fair Play. Wineries are spread out all over map and access
to many can be difficult. 
So,
a number of wineries have established in-town tasting rooms to make the connection
with buyers-tourists and locals alike-a much simpler matter. Where once there
were just Nevada City and Indian Springs to visit, Iron Mountain Vineyards has
opened a new facility in Nevada City.
In Grass Valley, Sierra Starr led
the way with the first tasting room when it opened last July. Earlier this year,
Luchessi Vineyard & Winery and Mill Street Wine Tasting opened their doors.
Now,
wine lovers can make the 26-mile scenic jaunt from Auburn to these neighboring
towns and enjoy a one-day introduction to some of the best vintages of the county.
Last Sunday I did just that, and I did it in style. Rather than jump into
the old Suburban, I was a passenger in the left hand seat of Cyndi Klement's 1947
Rolls Royce Silver Wraith. Talk about getting their being half the fun!
A
local wine lover, Cyndi's Roller is a story in itself. Originally owned by a mobster
in Southern California, it was purchased by a British diplomat before her grandfather
acquired it when he lived in Germany. When he moved to Hong Kong for a short time,
he took his luxury vehicle along.
Cyndi acquired the Rolls after her grandfather
passed away about 10 years ago. It is an older restoration, but the car is in
excellent condition and perfect for the cruise up to Grass Valley, with Cyndi
sitting in the right hand driver's seat.
Our first stop was Indian Springs
Winery at 303 Broad Street in Nevada City. Gawkers congregated immediately when
we pulled up to the curb. Cyndi is a wine club member, so she picked up her wines
and I tasted through the line-up.
Indian Springs is a venerable winery
with more than 400 acres of vineyards in Penn Valley. Unfortunately, it is in
troubled financial waters and is struggling in Chapter 11. One way to help out
is buy wine. I suggest their Syrah Port (almost sold out) and their 2000 Cabernet
Franc ($18).
Nevada City Winery is chugging along, too. It has no vineyards
and purchases all of the fruit it crushes. Get your State Fair gold-medal-winning
2001 Zinfandel, while it lasts. The tasting room is located at 321 Spring Street.
At the end of Main Street in the landmark No. 30 Assay Office Building,
where you'll find the tasting room for Iron Mountain Vineyards. Talk about cute.
. .beautifully decorated and walls laden with art, it is a great place to taste.
My favorite was the 2002 Zinfandel ($22). In fact, it was probably the top wine
of the day.
We cruised the Roller down hill to our first stop in Grass
Valley, Sierra Starr, at 200 West Main. Owner/winemaker Phil Starr made the bar
here, and it's beautiful. So is the wine. Get some of his Port ($30) while it
lasts. Just 75 cases made.
Right around the corner is Mill Street Wine
Tasting, featuring wines from Sierra Knolls, Burch Hall, Coyoteville and soon,
Naggiar Vineyards. Steve Burch, owner/winemaker for both Burch Hall and Coyoteville,
was working the bar, and he was the only principal we encountered all day. His
goal is to offer great wines under $20, and he does just that with his 2002 Burch
Hall Merlot ($12). What a value for a fruit-forward, smooth daily drinker.
At
the end of Main in the Del Oro Theatre building was our last stop, Luchessi Vineyards
& Winery, a compact shop bulging with wine. Tops for me was the just-released
2003 Zinfandel ($19). Nice spice, chocolate and blazing fruit; only 336 cases
made.
Actually, we did make one last call, the Dew Drop Inn, a little
honky-tonk hidden on Cerritos, just off of Highway 49 before Lake of the Pines.
Cyndi couldn't resist the opportunity to park the Roller out front.
Gary's
Auburn Journal Column Published 10/27/04
Thinking
outside the backyard when it comes to wines
After a two-week
hiatus from my column, I'm back. Not exactly tanned, rested and ready, but I'm
at the keyboard after wrestling with a new computerized inventory system for a
week. Believe me, the wine business isn't just about swirling, sipping and waxing
lyrically about wine.
I've been writing about wine for more than a year
now, and I've got to admit that it is becoming increasingly difficult to come
up with fresh ideas about what is essentially a compact element of the wine scene
— the Sierra foothills appellation. In roughly 60 columns I've written ad nauseam
about the people, wines and events in our region.
My original strategy
with this column was to keep a tight focus on the local scene because that's the
nature of a successful local newspaper. Give the readers what they want — a regular
helping about what is happening in their own back yards.
Great concept,
but tough to execute over time, so I've been thinking about expanding the scope
of what I offer to readers.
Part of the situation for me is that in the
two years I've worked in the wine industry, I've been introduced to a whole world
of wonderful wines that beckons from around California. I've encountered some
truly brilliant wines, and I've met some truly great people.
With a column
limited to the Sierra foothills, I wouldn't be able to introduce you to people
such as Tom Jinks, the vineyard manager in the family owned and operated Napa
winery called Robinson Family Vineyards. I met Tom at an industry tasting and
fell in love with his 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, a vintage of just 300 cases from
the Stag's Leap District.
Tom is the salt of the earth and the polar opposite
of the stereotypical Napa producer. There is no palatial tasting room on the estate.
When I place an order, Tom delivers the goods himself, making the long
drive over from the Silverado Trail. And what goods they are! The Robinson Family
Cab is 97 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, with just 3 percent of Cabernet Franc added.
The fruit is estate grown from a single hillside vineyard, aged in oak barrels
for 22 months. It is the only wine they make.
The wine delivers big aromas
of dust cherry, bitter chocolate, caramel and hints of tobacco. The winemaker,
Charles Hendricks, describes the flavors as "brooding sage with a long, persistent
cherry finish." Youthful tannins enable you to enjoy the wine now or let it age
for many years to come. It retails for $55 per bottle, a very competitive price
based on the wine's quality, pedigree and terrior.
If my column was limited
to the Sierra Foothills, I wouldn't be able to tell you about a new winemaker
in Sonoma County, Peter Murphy, a name familiar in viticulture all around California
and in the foothills. A career vineyard manager and long-time hobbyist winemaker,
Peter is now bonded to sell wines.
With a powerful chest, small waist,
rock-hard biceps and a youthful tan, Peter has the appearance of someone who has
labored out of doors. He consults for more than a dozen vineyards, including Eric
Stauss' Monarch Mine Vineyard near Foresthill.
Pulling double-duty, Peter
is now making and marketing his wines, appearing for the first time at the Auburn
Wine Festival in October. His wines were a hit, especially three 2001 releases.
His Cabernet Franc ($22) won silver medals at the 2004 California State Fair and
the 2004 San Francisco Wine Competition. His Petit Verdot ($22), an unusual varietal
typically employed for blending, is made from Placer County fruit and won a silver
medal at the 2004 El Dorado County Fair.
His 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon ($25)
is actually a Bordeaux blend of 80 percent Napa Cab with Placer County fruit of
15 percent Cab Franc and 5 percent Petite Verdot. If you fancy Cabs with bright
fruit, pepper, spice, vanilla oak and mild tannins, you'll appreciate this one.
Because my column is limited to the foothills, I won't be able to regale
you with tales from my next road trip, a journey through Paso Robles and the central
coast. Local wine enthusiast, Bernie Fox, will pilot us around the region in his
40-foot motor home in search of great Pinot Noirs and outstanding Syrahs.
In
reality there is nothing to prevent me from expanding the scope of my column,
unless my mailbox fills up with complaints from outraged readers. Since that is
unlikely, look for broader coverage in the future, but I won't forget who brought
me to the party.
Editor's Note: Let us know what you think about this
column, and whether it should be locally focused or branch out into vineyards
across Northern California and beyond. Send your comments to ajournal@goldcountrymedia.com.
Gary's
Auburn Journal Column Published 8/25/04
Sky's
the limit for Foothill Wine Prices
Sierra
Foothills AVA
There is a basic trend
rippling across the wine scene of the foothills that I find to be unfortunate.
One of the most compelling attributes of buying wine in the Sierra has
always been wine lovers could find a great bottle at a great price. In fact, just
two years ago when I jumped into the business, it was tough to find a foothill
wine priced above $20. No more.
The
price/value precept is diminishing rapidly. In 2004, the wine lists of more and
more foothill vintners have an entry price point above $20. Soon, finding a great
little foothill zin under $15 from a boutique producer could be a fond memory.
That's not to say that great buys aren't out there. Many of the old-school
winemakers still offer great values. Boeger's "masking tape" series is a good
example of nice wines for a reasonable price. You can't beat the 2001 Oakstone
Sierra Foothills Zinfandel for $14 or the 2002 Sobon Estate Old Vine Zinfandel
for $12. And large-volume producers such as Montevina, Renwood and Bogle offer
great daily-drinkers for under ten bucks.
Beyond these offerings, wineries
such as Jewel, McManis and Pescatore have flat-rate pricing for all of their wines.
All varieties are simply $10, and occasionally you can find them discounted even
lower.
The upward pricing spiral that I have encountered is being spurred
principally by new entrants in the foothills. New labels, including some led by
untested winemakers, are seeking top dollar for their wines right from the get-go.
I've seen a foothill viognier selling for $28 in a market where California's
best at the state fair was priced at just $10. The $28 bottle was excellent and
low-production, but come on.
In fact, $28 seems to be the price de jour
for new wines in the foothills. It comes in just under the next barrier that makes
consumers really stop and think: $30.
Certainly, winemakers have an expectation
of receiving a fair price for what they produce, but there is no guarantee of
covering costs or making a profit. Winemaking is one of the most investment-intensive
business imaginable, and amortizing equipment, land and building costs takes years.
It seems that some people, mesmerized by the romantic nature of winemaking and
the alluring lifestyle of being surround by vineyards, don't fully appreciate
the costs/risks.
Here's the basic rub, as I see it: When foothill wineries
go too far upmarket, a basic economic law rears its ugly head: the elasticity
of demand. As wine prices increase, the number of prospective buyers diminishes.
Those who do buy in the face of rising prices often buy less.
At the same
time, consumers who are willing to pay more suddenly begin exploring other options.
If a wine lover is willing to pay $30 for a bottle of wine, excellent Napa and
Sonoma options are available in this category. One of my favorite wines, the 2001
S Anderson Claret, is one of Napa's finest blends and it's just $27 per bottle.
Here's a suggestion for wineries that need to increase profitability:
start charging for tastings. The major wine regions of California charge for samples
in their tasting rooms because it helps cover the direct cost of providing the
service. What other business give products away for free?
Grape Escape
is Coming
The Second Annual Grape Escape wine and food celebration
is scheduled for September 16 to 19 in Sacramento, with the main tasting event
slated for Crocker Park on September 18, 1 to 7 p.m. Sponsored by the County of
Sacramento and the Sacramento Convention & Visitors Bureau, the idea is to spotlight
Capital Region wineries and restaurants.
The main event on Saturday pairs
48 wineries and food from 19 restaurants, with wineries representing eight counties.
Familiar names such as Coulson, Jodar, Lava Cap and Nevada City will be pouring.
Among the restaurants participating are Cattlemen's, Melting Pot, Pilot House
and Fourth Street Grille. Tickets are $25 in advance; $35 at the door.
Two
wine dinners are also scheduled. On September 16, enjoy a winemaker dinner at
Enotria Wine Bar and Café, for $75 per person. The next evening, the Firehouse
will sponsor a similar event for $100 per head.
For those who wish to
go directly to the source, five bus tours to area wineries are planned. Cost is
$60 per person and includes the bus ride, lunch and a ticket to the Grape Escape
tasting.
To order tickets and for more details, go to www.discovergold.org/grapeescape.com.
Countdown to the Auburn Wine Festival: Just 38 days to go for this
cross-town wine tasting and food pairing event. Some 35 venues are planned. Call
530-888-3662 to reserve tickets ($30 in advance).
Gary's
Auburn Journal Column Published 8/18/04
Local
vintners keep foothills on wine radar
Sierra
Foothills AVA
Winemaking in Auburn is alive and well and up on the radar these
days thanks to impressive wins at the 2004 California State Fair by Mt. Vernon
Winery and at the Los Angeles County Fair by Green Family Winery. While Mt. Vernon
Winery has the only formal tasting room here, there are three other Auburn-area
bonded operations actively selling wine.
Hyatt-Baumbach Wines 
Perched at the Auburn-Folsom Rd. entrance to the Gold Country Fairgrounds is the
Bernhard House, arguably the oldest wooden structure in Auburn that originally
served as a stage stop. Next to the home is the Bernhard Winery building, a massive
stone structure built in 1874. In a revival as the home of Hyatt-Baumbach Wines,
a local school teacher and a neurologist have returned the building to its original
use.
It is only by chance that you will find Ron Hyatt and Neal Baumbach
plying their passion behind the massive wooden arched doorway just a few yards
from the busy roadway. If their sign is out, though, you are welcome to stop in
and watch them work and taste their wines. . .sometimes directly from the barrel.
At Hyatt-Baumbach, the focus is on big, hearty red wines. The pair currently
has five wines on its list: 2002 Barbera, 2002 Charbono, 2002 Zinfandel, 2002
Cabernet Sauvignon and 2002 Merlot. All of the wines are priced at $18, with a
10% discount for cases purchases.
This is truly a boutique winery, with
very limited production. Only 67 cases of charbono were produced, and it is nearly
sold out. Seventy cases of cabernet sauvignon were bottled, along with 200 cases
of barbera.
Some of the grapes used by Hyatt-Baumbach are estate grown,
others are purchased from established sources such as the Ritchie Vineyard. Wines
are aged in both American and French oak. Everything from crushing to finishing
is accomplished in the Bernhard Winery.
This weekend is a great opportunity
to check out the facility. Hyatt-Baumbach will be hosting an Open House on August
21 and 22, from noon to 4 p.m. Stop by and meet the winemakers and taste the good
stuff: 291 Auburn Folsom Road; 530-885-6197.
Ophir Wines
The
three amigos of wine making at Ophir Wines are Mike Abbott, winemaker; Paul Burns,
viticulturist; and Craig Green, go-to-guy. The trio, with some 25 years of grape
experience, launched their venture in with their first crush when Ophir Wines
was bonded in 2002.
Burns owns 22 acres in Ophir, of which five are planted
in vines and dubbed the "Gold Blossom Vineyard". Varieties planted are syrah,
mourvedre, cinsault, zinfandel and petite sirah. Sauvignon blanc fruit is sourced
from the nearby Green Ravine Vineyard owned by Craig and Martye Green.
Earlier
this year, Ophir Wine offered its inaugural release:
--2002 Syrah: Some
325 cases were produced of this rich, red wine, heavy with flavors and aromas
of plum, blackberries, allspice and barbeque smoke. It is 75% syrah, blended with
zinfandel and petite sirah. Cost is $20 per bottle.
--2003 Sauvignon Blanc:
Very limited production of 85 cases gets you a straw colored, crisp wine with
citrus and pineapple aroma and grapefruit, fig and kiwi flavors. Nicely priced
at $16 per bottle.
--2003 Oui Rose. A scant 59 cases were made of this
light and refreshing blend of sangiovese, syrah, mourvedre, cinsualt and cabernet
sauvignon. Cost is $12 per bottle.
Ophir wines are available online, at
selected local restaurants, stores and frequently at the Wednesday Auburn Marketplace.
Contact the winery at 530-823-8030 or www.ophirwines.com.
Pescatore
Vineyard & Winery
Here's an idea: Produce great little, varietally
correct wines and charge just 10 bucks a bottle.
That's exactly what David
Wegner is doing on a 15-acre estate near Newcastle, along with the help of his
wife, Pat, and sons, Tim and Steve.
Wegner focuses his wine making on
Rhone-style varieties, and he employs old-world wine making techniques, including
the use of a basket press. While the winery's output this year was 250 cases,
production should ultimately peak at nearly 600 cases.
Three wines are
currently available:
--2002 Zinfandel: Medium-bodied with overtones of
vanilla; aged in American oak barrels for 9 months.
--2002 Syrah: Medium-bodied
with hints of cherry. Versions are available aged in American oak for 14 months
and French oak for 16 months.
--2002 Petite Sirah: This wine was aged
in American, French and Hungarian oak. The American oak is medium bodied with
berry flavors, while the French and Hungarian oak wines are heavier with more
tannin and oak flavors.
Purchase Pescatore wines at the Wednesday Auburn
Marketplace, local wine merchants or winery-direct by calling 530-534-7908.
Gary's
Auburn Journal Column Published 8/04/04
Old
Town Needs New Life
Sierra
Foothills AVA
If you haven’t visited Old Town
Auburn lately, you haven’t missed much. The place is stoically static. Unbelievably
unchanged. Remarkably routine.
I’m working on a project with the Old Town
Business Association to create a new walking tour map to help promote tourism
in our enclave, and the period pictures of yore that we’ll use to illustrate the
piece reveal a stunning sameness today. We’re shackled in a time warp that is
mostly of our own choosing.
Many people would argue that this is a good
thing. They would say that Old Town Auburn and places like it are best if preserved
exactly as they stood in the good, old days.
Our venerable brick structures,
many built nearly 150 years ago, have no fear of the wrecking ball. They have
a much higher likelihood of perishing under the force of their own age, weight
and neglect rather than succumbing to the whims of a greedy developer.
I
cherish the heritage of Old Town. I am a slave to the history of the place and
its uniqueness. I marvel at our structures and the stories held within their walls.
I have bonded with the characters that haunt the streets. I have a fondness and
protectiveness for this sideshow that I simply cannot explain.
Yet, I’d
like to see the place change.
On his deathbed, my father said to me, “Son,
if you don’t change, you die.”
I’ve tried to live my life cognizant of
my father’s warning, and that’s probably how I ended up in Auburn five years ago.
The changes I’d like to see are not a threat to the icons of Old Town.
I would be the first person to use my own body to shield the fire station or post
office or Tsuda’s from being ’dozed over. But there is much that could be done
to revitalize the crossroads of Lincoln Way and Sacramento Street.
For
openers, we need to attract retailers who offer products and services consumers
want to purchase. In the two years I’ve operated a business in Old Town, I’ve
seen a revolving door of undercapitalized startups with no real business plans.
And while antique stores have always been a draw, and we still have quality operators,
e-bay is making it tough for the remaining shops to survive.
Also key,
in my opinion, is converting underutilized structures and vacant lots into productive
use. A 6,000 square-foot storefront on Commercial Street has been vacant for at
least a year, and it would be a great place to start. And the Gold Rush Mall,
a catacomb of tiny shops at the base of Sacramento, is in desperate need of a
major makeover.
Two vacant lots in Old Town are ripe for development,
but the owners choose to sit on the raw land rather than use it to create buildings
for new businesses or housing that will make this a more vibrant community. Any
number of derelict structures could be razed without an outcry from preservationists,
and new dwellings could be erected in their stead.
None of this will ever
come to pass any time soon though, for a couple of reasons:
First, there
is an embedded layer of ownership here composed of long-time Auburnites who are
not motivated to divest any properties. These folks hold property debt-free, their
monthly nuts are miniscule and they have no compelling reason to make any changes.
Alas, the status quo rules.
Second, when properties do come on the market,
the price tags are staggering. The aforementioned, 100-year-old, warehouse-like
storefront on Commercial is on the block for $800,000. A 1,700 square-foot, 19th
century home on a 4,000 square foot lot on Court Street can be yours for $500,000
($294 a square foot!). And this is just the beginning. To rehab and bring these
buildings up to code once a building permit is pulled will no doubt cost hundreds
of thousands of dollars.
I know this to be true because I’ve drained my
bank account restoring the former Union Saloon that is now Carpe Vino. I started
this venture more than two years ago, and I have yet to see investment on a similar
scale anywhere in the neighborhood.
As it sits today, Old Town is still
a vibrant place. An empty parking space is precious, our dozen restaurants and
bars do a brisk trade and camera-toters seem to be everywhere on the weekends.
Ask people at City Hall, though, and they will tell you that Old Town
falls far below its potential. “Lower Town” will remain just that until serious
investments in infrastructure are made here so that we can someday fully contribute
to the economic vitality of Auburn.
Letters to the Editor,
Thursday, August 12, 2004
Old Town discussions require learning,
listening
On Aug. 4, Gary Moffat, a newcomer to Old Town, voiced his
opinions on our area. It was an unpopular and degrading view not shared by many.
I have a shop next to Mr. Moffat and he has never been in to shop or see
what I carry. I understand he has not been in many, if any of our retailers. How
does he know what we offer?
He mentioned that he wanted to attract products
and services that people want — is that why he rented part of his building to
a mortgage office that is seldom open?
It is true that Mr. Moffat (with
Gary Lord) is working on a new walking tour map but I wonder if we have nothing
to offer, why bother?
Our buildings are not all crumbling; most have been
repaired or restored.
We are historic and “modernization” is not an option.
We are a living history where one can step back and feel the peace and quiet of
another time.
My suggestion to Mr. Moffat is if he wants change and would
like to see an Auburn Disney Land, go back to Los Angeles or New York or whatever
progressive place he came from.
You cannot change history by bulldozing
it, and believe it or not, Mr. Moffat, your father was wrong about his deathbed
statement … you die whether or not you change.
Barbara Nichols, Merchant
for 10 years Old Town Auburn
Gary's Auburn Journal
Column Published 5/25/04
Foothills vintners offer a whole
lot to wine about
Sierra Foothills AVA
Sunday was
a busy week in the world of foothill wine.
Actually, the action started
Saturday afternoon with a benefit concert organized by Monarch Mine Vineyard owner
Eric Stauss. Hoping to top last year’s inaugural effort to raise money for the
Make-A-Wish Foundation, Stauss booked Mumbo Gumbo, a popular local band, to serve
as the main draw for the $50-per-head party in his Foresthill meadow. The plan
was to increase attendance from 200 to 400 people.
 With
all of the advance promotion lavished on the event, attaining this goal should
have been a slam dunk. Too bad, however, that the free Party in the Park at ARD
on Friday night also touted a fabulous headliner: Mumbo Gumbo.
Wish that
hadn’t happened. The Monarch Mine event fell short of its goal, but it drew a
decent crowd of decent people supporting a great cause.
Bottle your
own claret
Sunday morning, after installing a new battery in my Triumph
motorcycle, I embarked on a busy day of wine events. First stop was the Nevada
City Winery, which was wrapping up a two-day event celebrating its 12th Annual
Open House. The cruise up was a joy, an immersion in sunshine and the coolness
of the tall pines.
I was welcomed by the winery’s chairman and CEO, Wyn
Spiller, who was absolutely delighted with Saturday’s attendance. The Open House
has become a fixture on the Nevada City calendar, but a feature retained from
last year simply jammed the building.
Spiller said that in previous years,
visitors were encouraged to try their hand at blending wines. Last year, Nevada
City kicked it up a notch by inviting customers to bottle wine blended specially
for the event.
“We’ve always had a barrel component, but we had so much
fun with the bottling, we decided to do it again,” Spiller explained. Wine lovers
from all over the area agreed, because one staffer estimated the Saturday crowd
at more than 300 people.
The winery provided clean bottles for customers
to fill at two barrels — one filled with a 2001 Sierra Foothills Zinfandel ($10);
the other a 2002 Claret ($12), a blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and
merlot.
Winemakers-for-a-day filled the bottles, inserted corks, slapped
on labels and finally sealed the tops with foil. Not exactly brain surgery, but
when mixed with wine tasting and the lavish hors d’oeuvres, it made for a great
party.
Another highlight was the Merlot Vertical Tasting presented in
Nevada City’s Library Room. Tasters got to sample merlots from 1987, 1994, 1996,
1998 and 1999. My favorite was the ’96, which still showed plenty of fruit and
finish. The 1987 was predictably soft, but remarkably fit to drink, which is why
the last few cases were sold over the weekend.
If you’re into food and
wine, Nevada City offers monthly pairing classes held in the winery. Each month,
a local restaurant is invited to pair its own creations with wines from Nevada
City. The chef participates in the class, as does the winery’s own expert, Rod
Beyers.
Bad news is classes are sold out through September. Contact the
winery at 530-265-9463 for information about the October program.
Green
Family comes up gold at L.A. fair
Green Family Winery is the little
winery that could. A winery that few outside of Placer County have ever heard
of beat out the likes of Chateau Ste. Michelle, Fess Parker, Justin and Bonny
Doon with a Gold medal and Best of Class award in the “syrah $13 to $25” class
at the 2004 Los Angeles County Fair.
Competition was significant in the
category, with 72 medals awarded overall. For an under-1,000 case winery such
as Charlie Green’s, the win was akin to the Placer Hillman beating the Oakland
Raiders.
As you might expect, Green downplayed the achievement. “Give
the credit to the great Placer County fruit … I don’t know that much about winemaking,”
he deadpanned.
In fact, Green Family Winery has only been selling wines
since the 2000, although Charlie was an active home wine and beer maker for years.
Green’s big winner was his 2001 Green Family Syrah ($19), made from 100 percent
estate fruit — grapes grown in his own vineyard.
Just 350 cases were produced,
aged in two-thirds used French oak; one-third new French oak. Green describes
his dark crimson wine as “spicy and peppery with very, very ripe tannins.”
Also
new from Green Family is the 2002 Barbera d’Auburn, made from 100 percent estate
fruit. Just 97 cases were made, and it is priced at $25 per bottle.
Madrona’s
port a silky winner
Another big winner at the L.A. Country Fair was
the 2002 Sierra Foothills Vintage Port from Madrona Vineyards in Camino. Although
it has not yet been released, you might try begging for a taste if you visit the
winery on June 12 or 13 during a special event called “A Taste of Wine and Art,”
from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. The work of local artists will be showcased and you’ll
get to taste Madrona’s four new releases.
Bootleggers celebrates 10
years in business
For any small business to survive, 10 years is a
huge achievement.
For a restaurant to survive for a decade can be a viewed
as a miracle. Ty Rowe has not only reached this milestone, he has created an establishment
— with the help of his family — that is thriving in Old Town Auburn.
His
accomplishment was recognized recently at the State of the Community Dinner when
Bootleggers was named Business of the Year by the Chamber of Commerce. The award
was richly deserved and shared with his aunt and co-owner Nell Curran.
Ty
knows how to throw a party, and to celebrate Bootleggers’ birthday, he invited
hundreds of his closest friends Sunday to a Caribbean festival with a steel band
to rock the parking lot. Everybody was there — the mayor and city manager, Old
Town merchants and Ty’s long-time customers. The food and beverages were first
class and everything was on the house.
Ty knows the restaurant game, and
he knows how to say “thank you.”
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