The two major changes we have been keeping you informed about over the past few months are now being implemented at Carpe Vino. First, we have segued in the restaurant from a “fine dining” to “small plates.” What this means, basically, is that we have expanded our menu selections for soups, salads and appetizers and at the same time, dropped entrées from the list. The idea behind this is to recognize the impact the changing economy has had on the way people dine out. Most people are tightening their budgets where they can, leaving little room for fancy dinners out.
So, our move to “small plates” makes Carpe Vino more affordable and more accessible for more people. Now, you can enjoy wine and food at Carpe Vino and not worry about spending too much. You can select just a few items, or you can create an entire meal that will leave you completely satisfied. The best part is that the change in format has nothing to do with quality. . .you can expect the same high standards in preparation from our chef, Eric Alexander.
The second change is we are re-focusing on our primary mission as a wine retailer. Our entire third building is now given over to wine sales. Stacked cases are back, and we’re working hard to find great values under $20 per bottle. At the same time, we’re opening a new Placer & Beyond Wine Tasting component to Carpe Vino. We’re now offering the complete line-ups from 12 local wineries. We’re offering up to 15 local wines for tasting every day, and you can purchase five, five-ounces tastes for just $5, any time Carpe Vino is open.
In his review (http://www.sacbee.com/117/story/1358788.html), Dunne hits on the themes that I have written about in Window on Old Town and in our new brochure (PDF is available on our website). It is the unique combination of our venue, cuisine and staff that make Carpe Vino such a special place. It is one thing for me to say it; another thing entirely for a highly respected critic such as Mike Dunne to applaud our efforts.
In his review, Dunne spared no praise using “exceptionally sensuous,” “original composition,” “remarkable acuity,” “more inviting than ever” and “imaginative” to describe Courtney’s and Eric’s dishes he sampled during his visit in October. He also urged his readers to visit soon, because Courtney will be leaving in February and we’ll be refining our menu format then.
For all of us at Carpe Vino, this is a big deal. . .a very big deal that I am sure is most appreciated by my restaurant colleagues in our region. It is a huge accomplishment simply to be reviewed, much less be recognized with four stars. My restaurant friends around town will full well understand I am not beating my chest in celebrating this accolade. It just feels so damned good, and it is especially rewarding in the tough times in which our community is sagging.
Yes, I’m proud, but what brings me the greatest joy is that my son, Drew, is largely responsible for sustaining Carpe Vino and taking our venture to a heightened level of excellence. He has worked so hard, put in absolutely killer hours and learned his lessons well. At 27, he is a remarkable young man who is just beginning to demonstrate his worth and abilities.
Carpe Vino is the product of a simple notion that struck me when I was trying to figure out what to do with myself while in the throes of exiting the publishing business nearly 10 years ago. It was one of those “wouldn’t  it be cool” moments that in the absence of sound reasoning actually saw the light of day. Had cooler heads prevailed, 1568 Lincoln Way would probably house a sports bar operated by some other wannabe with a killer idea.
Though Chef Courtney McDonald has always been viewed as our cuisine high achiever, the truth is that Chef Eric Alexander is equally responsible for the output of our cramped, inefficient, underpowered kitchen. This dream team has created and sustained a level of cuisine and quality that juggernaut operations with unlimited budgets and manpower cannot match.
I look down the hill at restaurants with millions of dollars invested in each—La Provence, Hawks, Paul Martin’s, Crush 29 and Ruths Chris—and all are currently rated at three stars or less. Each of these places has beautifully equipped kitchens staffed with dozens of people, they are promoted heavily and automatically get noticed because of their locations.
Yet Auburn is fortunate to have two highly acclaimed restaurants: Le Bilig, owned by Marc and Monica Deconick is another jewel in our town. It received 3 ½ stars in a Mike Dunne review published the week before Carpe Vino’s.
One important point that Dunne made in his Carpe Vino review was the value in our wine program. “. . .the price can’t be beat—retail plus $5 to open, decant and serve with fine stemware.” I can’t tell you how many people don’t understand the value in this approach because they think they are paying a corkage fee for a bottle of wine they have purchased, when actually the savings on each bottle is huge. Believe it or not, some people—I cringe to think about the actual number—won’t come back, and they tell people they got gouged at Carpe Vino.
The downside of our reputation is that many people think that Carpe Vino’s menu is unaffordable. Many people—mostly those who have never even been in the place—think it is the most expensive restaurant in town. This is absolutely untrue.
While it is accurate that because ours is a fine dining establishment and we do not purchase prepared items from purveyors such as Sysco (all stocks, sauces, soups, sorbets and ice creams are house made), there is a reasonable premium to be paid. Yet I eat at other restaurants in town, too, and our pricing is right in line with Monkey Cat, Le Bilig, Latitudes, Bootleggers, The Club Car and Horseshoe Bar Grill. Factor in our generous wine pricing and selection, and for reasonable people, Carpe Vino represents a fabulous value. . .especially if you compare us to the Roseville restaurants mentioned earlier.
If I have any regrets related to Carpe Vino, it is I know that some people decline to visit because they have been offended by something I have written in my Placer Sentinel newspaper column or in an online commentary. It’s not that I regret anything that I have written. . .no, it is I regret that because some people harbor resentments they refuse to walk through the door. I regret that they have passed up the opportunity to experience the pleasures of a singular place in their community. I regret that there is intolerance for alternate ideas and their expression.
Fortunately for Carpe Vino, we’ve enjoyed the patronage of foodies and wine aficionados from all over northern California. And they don’t give a damn about my politics, all they want is our osso buco.
If you want evidence that Placer County wineries are getting the accolades they deserve, check out last Sunday’s Sacramento Bee. In a booster piece written by Rick Kushman, our local wine industry gets a big thumbs up: “Placer County's young wine industry is surprisingly adept. There's loads of good, and some exceptional, wine there.”
Kushman visited a number of wineries and discussed the problem of Placer wines gaining visibility in a crowded industry. The piece includes a directory of all wineries in the County.
To read the full story, go online to www.sacbee.com/kushman/story/2144504.html. |
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