2011 Kismet Wines “Papa’s All-Blacks” Red

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$24.95 (retail) Wine Club pricing reflected in receipt

At first I thought this wine must be a tribute to New Zealand’s national rugby team, the “All Blacks,” but it is actually a reference to the 50-year-old “heritage vineyards” where the “black” fruit is sourced from in Sonoma (see varietals in blend below).  This is truly a family project, conceived by Mady Peterson and realized by her husband Joel—founder of Ravenswood—and his son and owner of Bedrock Wine Company, Morgan Twain-Peterson.

They have produced a huge, rich wine from classic vineyards whose appeal is “not only their history; old vines have deep roots that withstand droughts, ripen more evenly and give a juice that is more intense, more concentrated and complex,” says the winery’s web site.  The downside is the vines produce substantially less fruit.  Thankfully, the Petersons have access to vineyards planted with dense, black grapes field blended and then combined with 60% zinfandel to yield Papa’s All-Blacks.

(Fast fact:  “Kismet,” the winery name, is derived from the Punjabi word for “destiny”.)

Wine Advocate Review (88 pts.):   “A field blend of assorted grapes that pays tribute to the growers who planted some of California’s most historic vineyard sites back in the late 1800s.  Sweet floral notes meld into dark red fruit, asphalt, sweet spices and licorice as the 2011 opens in the glass.  Juicy and seductive, this is an excellent choice for drinking over the next few years.  Anticipated maturity:  2013-2021.

Blend:  The inaugural vintage of Papa’s is approximately 60% zinfandel, the balance being a field-blend mix of petite sirah, carignane, Alicante Bouschet and 14 other varieties sourced from several different old vine heritage sites on the North Coast, many of which are over 100 years old.

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