$24 (retail) Wine Club pricing reflected in receipt

There is a sad but inspiring story behind this Lodi-based, truly family-owned and operated winery.  It was founded in 1979 by Tim and Barbara Spencer (her maiden name is St. Amant), and we first started selling their widely appreciated port before Tim passed away in 2006.  Son, Stuart, who grew up in the winery, ended up taking the reins and now he is winemaker and his mother continues to own and manage the business (and tasting room).

Equally impressive for me as the St. Amant Port is its Marian’s Vineyard Old Vine Zinfandel produced from century-old vines.  We stock it from time-to-time, but our selection this month is new to me:  Speakeasy Red, under the new Bootleg Society brand.  This is the second vintage and it is a wine that I’m sure we’ll stocking.

Winery Tasting Notes:   “This wine is hand-crafted in the cellars of St. Amant.  It’s a robust blended red comprised of zinfandel, barbera, souzao, Tempranillo and a few secret ingredients to deliver a full-bodied mouthwatering wine with ripe berry flavors, spice, and underlying earth tones that reflect the sun-drenched vineyards of Lodi. The wine is for those who love great wine without the pretense.”

Blend:  65% Marian’s Vineyard zinfandel, 20% Leventini Vineyard barbera and unspecified percentages of Tempranillo, souzao and a “secret ingredient”.

$24.95 (retail) Wine Club pricing reflected in receipt

At first I thought this wine must be a tribute to New Zealand’s national rugby team, the “All Blacks,” but it is actually a reference to the 50-year-old “heritage vineyards” where the “black” fruit is sourced from in Sonoma (see varietals in blend below).  This is truly a family project, conceived by Mady Peterson and realized by her husband Joel—founder of Ravenswood—and his son and owner of Bedrock Wine Company, Morgan Twain-Peterson.

They have produced a huge, rich wine from classic vineyards whose appeal is “not only their history; old vines have deep roots that withstand droughts, ripen more evenly and give a juice that is more intense, more concentrated and complex,” says the winery’s web site.  The downside is the vines produce substantially less fruit.  Thankfully, the Petersons have access to vineyards planted with dense, black grapes field blended and then combined with 60% zinfandel to yield Papa’s All-Blacks.

(Fast fact:  “Kismet,” the winery name, is derived from the Punjabi word for “destiny”.)

Wine Advocate Review (88 pts.):   “A field blend of assorted grapes that pays tribute to the growers who planted some of California’s most historic vineyard sites back in the late 1800s.  Sweet floral notes meld into dark red fruit, asphalt, sweet spices and licorice as the 2011 opens in the glass.  Juicy and seductive, this is an excellent choice for drinking over the next few years.  Anticipated maturity:  2013-2021.

Blend:  The inaugural vintage of Papa’s is approximately 60% zinfandel, the balance being a field-blend mix of petite sirah, carignane, Alicante Bouschet and 14 other varieties sourced from several different old vine heritage sites on the North Coast, many of which are over 100 years old.

$75 (retail) Wine Club pricing reflected in receipt

Another take on families in wine, Whitehall Lane has been under its current ownership since 1993 when Tom Leonardini, Sr. purchased the winery.  His son, Tom II, joined the team almost immediately in 1994 and now is vice president of distribution; daughter, Katie, is v.p. of operations.

The eldest daughter, Kristen, has owned the Napa Valley Wine Exchange for 20 years, one of San Francisco’s top retail wine shops.

Winemaker Dean Sylvester has been at the helm for 12 years, and he is also responsible for overseeing 110 acres of vineyards.  A graduate of U.C. Davis, he has also worked at Chimney Rock.

Winery Tasting Notes:  “This is a dense wine with loads of black fruit at its core. Toasty French oak beautifully balances the well-focused aromas and flavors of blackberry and black cherry. Ripe, velvety tannins coat the mouth and mellow into a velvety, lingering finish. Enjoy this wine through 2026.”

Blend:  92% cabernet sauvignon, 4% petit verdot, 4% Malbec

$24.95 (retail) Wine Club pricing reflected in receipt

At first I thought this wine must be a tribute to New Zealand’s national rugby team, the “All Blacks,” but it is actually a reference to the 50-year-old “heritage vineyards” where the “black” fruit is sourced from in Sonoma (see varietals in blend below).  This is truly a family project, conceived by Mady Peterson and realized by her husband Joel—founder of Ravenswood—and his son and owner of Bedrock Wine Company, Morgan Twain-Peterson.

They have produced a huge, rich wine from classic vineyards whose appeal is “not only their history; old vines have deep roots that withstand droughts, ripen more evenly and give a juice that is more intense, more concentrated and complex,” says the winery’s web site.  The downside is the vines produce substantially less fruit.  Thankfully, the Petersons have access to vineyards planted with dense, black grapes field blended and then combined with 60% zinfandel to yield Papa’s All-Blacks.

(Fast fact:  “Kismet,” the winery name, is derived from the Punjabi word for “destiny”.)

Wine Advocate Review (88 pts.):   “A field blend of assorted grapes that pays tribute to the growers who planted some of California’s most historic vineyard sites back in the late 1800s.  Sweet floral notes meld into dark red fruit, asphalt, sweet spices and licorice as the 2011 opens in the glass.  Juicy and seductive, this is an excellent choice for drinking over the next few years.  Anticipated maturity:  2013-2021.

Blend:  The inaugural vintage of Papa’s is approximately 60% zinfandel, the balance being a field-blend mix of petite sirah, carignane, Alicante Bouschet and 14 other varieties sourced from several different old vine heritage sites on the North Coast, many of which are over 100 years old.

$37.50 (retail) Wine Club pricing reflected in receipt

Young Ryan Deovlet got his start in winemaking a decade ago working harvest in Australia and New Zealand.  His training has come primarily on the job, in the cellar and vineyards.  He was tutored by notables such as Stephen Dooley of Stephen Ross Wine Cellars and Paul Hobbs at Vina Cobos in Argentina and David Ramey.

He continued his apprenticeship at a number of Central Coast wineries before launching his own brand in 2008.  Deovlet Wines produces pinot noir and chardonnay from the Sta. Rita Hills and the Santa Maria Valley.  And, beginning with the 2011 vintage, a red Bordelaise blend, inspired by the right bank, sourced from Happy Canyon AVA.

Deovlet, an emerging pro to watch, is also winemaker at Refugio Springs Winery.

Winery Tasting Notes:  “With no new oak being used and resting instead on mostly neutral barrels, one barrel being filled once previously and offering subtle spice, the wine is pure and transparent allowing the complexities of old vine, own rooted chardonnay from this iconic site to resonate.  White flowers, pear, honeydew melon, candied lemon zest, and chalky undertones offer lovely lift on the nose while the pallet brings ever so slightly more richness in almond pastry and pear tart.”

Blend:  100% Chardonnay

$22.00 Wine Club pricing reflected in receipt

No surprise that we’ve got a Pezzi King selection this month.  It was one of Drew’s last stops on a trip in late June that took him through Portland, Walla Walla, Bend, North Coast and all points in-between.  Founded in 1993, Pezzi King Zinfandel has been a fixture on our list, but we lost touch after Wilson Artisan Wines acquired the winery.  Obviously, that’s fixed now.

Ken and Diane Wilson over the past decade have amassed a veritable stable of eight wineries through their Wilson Artisan Wines holding company that includes Jaxon Keys, Mazzocco Sonoma, Soda Rock and Matrix.  The pair also has a winery under its own name, Wilson, of which Diane is winemaker.

Winery Tasting Notes:  “Vibrant flavors of passion fruit, honey and Key lime lead the way to melon, citrus and honeysuckle notes in the mouth.  Chardonnay finishes with tropical fruit, garden herbs and hints of vanilla bean.  Pairs wonderfully with salmon cakes topped with lemon aioli or chicken roasted with fresh garden herbs and creamy mushroom risotto on the side.”

 Blend:  100% Chardonnay

$24.95 (retail) Wine Club pricing reflected in receipt

Winemaker Jeff Gaffner’s career began in 1981 at Chateau St. Jean under the tutelage of renowned vintner Richard Arrowood. Most notably, Jeff was part of the winemaking team responsible for Chateau St. Jean’s 1996 Cinq Cepages, which was named the 1999 Wine of the Year by Wine Spectator Magazine.  (We were lucky enough to taste this wine at Carpe Vino and it was awesome!)

In 1997, Jeff, together with wife Terisa, launched the family’s own wine label, Saxon Brown, named for the willful heroine in Jack London’s Valley of the Moon. The winery gained instant recognition for its flagship “old vine” Zinfandel from the family’s Casa Santinamaria Vineyard, one of only a few remaining classic, Italian field blended vineyards. As a second generation Sonoma Valley farmer, Jeff and his family have managed their prized, 100-year-old vineyard in Sonoma since 1934.

In addition to his own brand, Jeff consults on projects in Sonoma and Napa Valley, including Armida Winery, Three Sticks and Sand Hill Wines.

Winery Tasting Notes:  “Exotic notes of white peach, citrus blossom and fig permeate our incredibly lively, refreshing and food-friendly 2012 Fighting Brothers Semillon. The crisp, high-toned fruit flavors are beautifully supported by the wonderfully rich, slightly yeasty mouthfeel. The wine finishes with tremendous length and finesse, ending with a flourish of floral accents.”

Blend:  100% chardonnay

$24 (retail) Wine Club pricing reflected in receipt

This wine is produced by Crew Wine Company, a collection of four main brands and a few cats and dogs, of which The Arsonist is one.  The principal labels have all been featured at Carpe Vino:  Matchbook, Mossback, Chasing Venus and Sawbuck.

Crew is owned by the Giguiere family (Lane, John and Carl), which launched R.H. Phillips Winery in 1983 and made famous by the wildly popular Toasted Head Chardonnay.  The winery went public in 1995 and then cashed out in 2000 when the business was sold to Vincor (at which John served as president and CEO until 2005).

The Arsonist Chardonnay is predictably well crafted and delicious. . .because these folks know how to make and market wine.

Winery Tasting Notes:  “Luscious, fleshy, rich and round, mouth coating, full bodied. Take your pick; this big Chardonnay has it all. We selected the best barrel lots of our Dunnigan Hills fruit to create The Arsonist Chardonnay. Aromas of toasty oak, caramel apple and crème brûlée mingle with cinnamon and barrel spice. Upfront flavors of buttery toast are layered over fresh mango and star fruit. A touch of Russian River Valley Chardonnay adds zest to the finish. Integrated sweet oak characters harmonize with a big buttery palate and loads of tropical fruit. Pair The Arsonist Chardonnay with poached lobster in drawn butter, chicken liver mousse or a creamy Alfredo sauce over anything.”

$24 (retail) Wine Club pricing reflected in receipt

There is a sad but inspiring story behind this Lodi-based, truly family-owned and operated winery.  It was founded in 1979 by Tim and Barbara Spencer (her maiden name is St. Amant), and we first started selling their widely appreciated port before Tim passed away in 2006.  Son, Stuart, who grew up in the winery, ended up taking the reins and now he is winemaker and his mother continues to own and manage the business (and tasting room).

Equally impressive for me as the St. Amant Port is its Marian’s Vineyard Old Vine Zinfandel produced from century-old vines.  We stock it from time-to-time, but our selection this month is new to me:  Speakeasy Red, under the new Bootleg Society brand.  This is the second vintage and it is a wine that I’m sure we’ll stocking.

Winery Tasting Notes:   “This wine is hand-crafted in the cellars of St. Amant.  It’s a robust blended red comprised of zinfandel, barbera, souzao, Tempranillo and a few secret ingredients to deliver a full-bodied mouthwatering wine with ripe berry flavors, spice, and underlying earth tones that reflect the sun-drenched vineyards of Lodi. The wine is for those who love great wine without the pretense.”

Blend:  65% Marian’s Vineyard zinfandel, 20% Leventini Vineyard barbera and unspecified percentages of Tempranillo, souzao and a “secret ingredient”.

$24 (retail) Wine Club pricing reflected in receipt

This wine is produced by Crew Wine Company, a collection of four main brands and a few cats and dogs, of which The Arsonist is one.  The principal labels have all been featured at Carpe Vino:  Matchbook, Mossback, Chasing Venus and Sawbuck.

Crew is owned by the Giguiere family (Lane, John and Carl), which launched R.H. Phillips Winery in 1983 and made famous by the wildly popular Toasted Head Chardonnay.  The winery went public in 1995 and then cashed out in 2000 when the business was sold to Vincor (at which John served as president and CEO until 2005).

The Arsonist Chardonnay is predictably well crafted and delicious. . .because these folks know how to make and market wine.

Winery Tasting Notes:  “Luscious, fleshy, rich and round, mouth coating, full bodied. Take your pick; this big Chardonnay has it all. We selected the best barrel lots of our Dunnigan Hills fruit to create The Arsonist Chardonnay. Aromas of toasty oak, caramel apple and crème brûlée mingle with cinnamon and barrel spice. Upfront flavors of buttery toast are layered over fresh mango and star fruit. A touch of Russian River Valley Chardonnay adds zest to the finish. Integrated sweet oak characters harmonize with a big buttery palate and loads of tropical fruit. Pair The Arsonist Chardonnay with poached lobster in drawn butter, chicken liver mousse or a creamy Alfredo sauce over anything.”

$75 (retail) Wine Club pricing reflected in receipt

Another take on families in wine, Whitehall Lane has been under its current ownership since 1993 when Tom Leonardini, Sr. purchased the winery.  His son, Tom II, joined the team almost immediately in 1994 and now is vice president of distribution; daughter, Katie, is v.p. of operations.

The eldest daughter, Kristen, has owned the Napa Valley Wine Exchange for 20 years, one of San Francisco’s top retail wine shops.

Winemaker Dean Sylvester has been at the helm for 12 years, and he is also responsible for overseeing 110 acres of vineyards.  A graduate of U.C. Davis, he has also worked at Chimney Rock.

Winery Tasting Notes:  “This is a dense wine with loads of black fruit at its core. Toasty French oak beautifully balances the well-focused aromas and flavors of blackberry and black cherry. Ripe, velvety tannins coat the mouth and mellow into a velvety, lingering finish. Enjoy this wine through 2026.”

Blend:  92% cabernet sauvignon, 4% petit verdot, 4% Malbec